Exploring Scotland’s North Coast 500: Our Epic Road Trip Adventure
I’m obsessed with Scotland. Since falling under the spell of Outlander in 2022 and visiting for the first time in 2023 - all I’ve thought about is going back. It gets you, reels you in… the rugged landscapes, historic castles, and remote beaches have a magical pull. This summer, I hosted a group of 19 women on a trip through the highlands. Bill & Aiden then joined me and we finally explored the North Coast 500 (NC500), Scotland’s iconic coastal route that loops around the northernmost part of the country. We spent almost two weeks journeying from Edinburgh up to the Outer Hebrides, back through the Highlands, and down to Edinburgh again. This blog captures our adventures, stops, and highlights along the way.
Day 1: Arriving in Edinburgh
We landed in Edinburgh late afternoon. After settling into our cozy Castle Snug, we immediately explored Edinburgh Castle. This was truly amazing, and I highly recommend taking a guided tour - it brings the history to life! Castle Snug was a fabulous accommodation right on the Royal Mile. The flat itself has a rich history, once home to notable residents, and its location meant we were just steps from the Writers’ Museum, which celebrates Scotland’s literary giants.
Day 2: Exploring Edinburgh
A full day in Edinburgh allowed us to dive deeper into the city’s charm. Wandering the Royal Mile, exploring quirky shops, and soaking up the atmosphere of Calton Hill was the perfect few day to settle in. Edinburgh’s mix of medieval history and vibrant culture makes it a fantastic starting point before heading north.
Stay: Castle Snug, Edinburgh
Day 3: Edinburgh → Inverness | Drive: 3 hrs
We picked up our rental car and drove north to Inverness, the gateway to the Highlands. On arrival, we caught up with Paul, our guide from my womens group trip - it was so lovely to see him! Inverness was a welcoming base for exploring the Highlands and breaking up the long drives ahead, a really lovely city on the water. A welcome chance to stay in a little flat with laundry!
Stay: Riverside Flat, Inverness (bookable on Air BNB)
Day 4: Inverness → Mey | Drive: 3 hrs
A day packed with scenic coastal highlights:
Robertsons Farm Shop – highland coos! So so cute, and a great little farm shop with local treats
Dornoch Beach – stunning, though the hot chocolate at Cocoa Mountain wasn’t a hit for us, we loved the village
Castle Sinclair – one of our favorite sights of the trip; the abandoned ruins are incredible. The boys spent ages wondering through and exploring, super cool.
John o’ Groats & Duncasby Head Sea Stacks – puffins galore! How amazing to get to see them, this is a really stunning spot with little effort required to see the stacks.
We ended the day at Mey Hotel, ready for more northern adventures. A warm and welcoming spot .
Stay: Mey Hotel
Day 5: Mey → Kinlochbervie | Drive: 2 hrs 30 min
Despite the rain, we pressed on:
Strathy Beach – dramatic coastline, would love to see in good weather!!
Thurso Town – last chance for groceries at Tesco
Smoo Cave – truly incredible; we spent ages exploring and walked out to the headland
Sango Bay & Balnakeil Beach – breathtaking views even in the misty and cloudy weather
Golden Eagle Zipline - the boys also did the zip line over the beach and loved it!
Stay: The View B&B, Kinlochbervie
Day 6: Kinlochbervie → Lochinver | Drive: 1 hr 30 min
We doubled back to Balnakeil Beach in clearer weather - stunning! Then explored:
Kylesku Bridge
Wailing Widow Falls at Loch Gainmhich - be warned these are actually super hard to get to and see, which I was surprised by. The walk to the falls is rough and rocky, and from above you can’t see much so just be warned.
Ardvreck Castle – photogenic and moody ruins, a quick stop to stretch out legs.
Clashnessie Beach – probably my favorite spot, though I tragically lost my drone here 😭
A gorgeous part of the drive, showcasing some of Scotland’s wildest coastline.
Stay: Lochinver Apartment
Day 7: Lochinver → Gairloch Area | Drive: 2 hrs 25 min
We made a last min to decision to go up Stac Pollaidh, a Munro with incredible panoramic views. Highly recommend it for anyone who loves a challenging hike. Later, we explored Ullapool and did the Corrieshalloch Gorge Hike, a highlight of our Highland adventures.
Stay: The Millcroft, Gairloch
Day 8: Gairloch → Applecross | Drive: 1 hr 40 min
Rainy weather kept us from hiking, but we braved the Bealach na Bà Pass, one of Scotland’s most dramatic drives, in truly awful weather. We arrived in Applecross - which is magical in any weather, and had a sleepy afternoon, necessary after the intense drive. Deer roamed freely around the village, adding to the magic of the Highlands.
Stay: Applecross Inn (book well ahead)
Day 9: Applecross → Uig / Tarbert | Drive: 2 hrs 40 min
One of our favourite days, which funnily enough was the day that ended up being the most spontaneous. We were worried this day would be very long as we had to get from Applecross to Harris and Lewis, but it was actually great and really relaxed.
The Bealach na Bà Pass in good weather was breathtaking, a complete contrast to yesterday!
Randomly found a shinty pitch in a field, where we played football and had a picnic lunch
Sligachan Bridge – explored on Skye in gorgeous weather
It was wonderfully relaxed and unplanned - a perfect day in Scotland.
Stay: Harris Hotel
Days 10–12: Harris & Lewis Exploring
Golden Road, Harris Tweed shops, Seilebost & Luskentyre Beaches - highly recommend the tweed mill and Seilebost, lovely people with a demo and products.
Callanish Stone Circle – mystical standing stones. Amazing to finally see these!
Gearrannan Blackhouse Village - a great historic spot - rained again so didn’t stay long
Lews Castle – an absolute gem! The castle itself is gorgeous, and staying in the apartment felt like living a piece of history. Highly recommend!
Stay: Lews Castle, Stornoway
Day 13: Stornoway → Glencoe | Ferry 2.5 hrs + Drive 3.5 hrs
7 am ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool, then a scenic drive through the Highlands to Glencoe. The dramatic mountains and lochs were a perfect end to the northern adventure.
Stay: Corran Bunkhouse, Glencoe
Day 14: Glencoe → Edinburgh & Paris
We drove back to Edinburgh Airport for a 4:15 pm flight to Paris. Even after two weeks, Scotland’s rugged beauty lingered in our minds.
Reflections & Tips
Early or late Summer is ideal for long daylight and photography
Weather is unpredictable – layers and waterproofs are essential. We had so much rain! On our last trip we had not one drop - so it’s hard to know what you’ll get.
Plan fuel and food stops – northern stretches are remote
Go off schedule sometimes – the unplanned stops often become the best memories
Capture every view – from beaches to mountains to ruins, it’s all Instagram-worthy
The NC500 is more than a road trip; it’s a journey into Scotland’s wild soul. From abandoned castles to majestic peaks, soft beaches, and quiet villages, it’s an adventure that stays with you long after you return home.